Aller simple by Piero Macola

By Piero Macola

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Let’s start with the basics. Basics of Korean Pickling Which flavors are the biggest, baddest, and boldest? You’ll find them in a Korean pickle. Salt? Lots of it—don’t even try to get low sodium here. Garlic? By the bulbful. Ginger? Blinding you with its bite. Green onions, fish sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, and, of course, ground dried chile pepper till the cows come home. In varying amounts, these are the iconic flavors of kimchi and many banchan. But what else sets Korean pickles apart? 1. Lacto-fermentation.

One of the best things about banchan is their capacity to surprise. Offerings vary from eatery to eatery and from home to home. But they can vary also from day to day and from season to season. A diner is never sure how many there are going to be—traditionally, there will be three, five, seven, or nine, or, for very formal meals, twelve. The colors, the textures, the temperatures—in the hands of a masterful chef—all are meant to work together. For the home cook, enjoying a variety of banchan means stocking the fridge with a few jars of long-lasting pickles and kimchi, and sometimes preparing a few fresh banchan to breathe new life into a simple meal.

Place another metal mixing bowl of equal size on top to form a dome, hold the two bowls together tightly, and then vigorously shake the garlic up and down in the bowls for 10 to 15 seconds. Magic! The skins just slough off. Removing garlic smell from your hands: Some people love the lingering stink of the Italian rose on their hands, and that’s fine. However, I’m more of a Chanel girl myself. To remove the heavy garlic smell from your skin, simply touch your hands to a piece of metal—I usually just wrap my hands around the nozzle of my kitchen faucet.

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